Technique

How to weather tanks for the tabletop

Weathering makes a model look like it's been somewhere. For wargames, a few quick steps done in the right order beat a long display-model process.

The order that works

Seal the base coat and markings
Varnish after decals so later steps can't lift them.
Wash or pin wash
A dark brown wash in recesses and around rivets adds depth. On large flat panels, put it only in the recesses (a pin wash) rather than all over.
Chipping
Use a small piece of sponge and dark brown paint. Dab most of it off on paper first. Chip where crew and tools rub: hatches, edges, tool racks. Less is more.
Exhaust
Dark rust and black on the exhaust itself, then a soft, sooty grey-black dusting on the hull behind it.
Dust and mud
Dust is a pale earth colour dry-brushed or sponged on the lower hull and running gear. Mud is thicker, wetter and darker, mostly on tracks and wheels. Match the base of the model: desert dust, Normandy mud and Russian spring mud are all different colours.
Tracks
Dark metal base, a rust and earth wash, then rub a soft graphite pencil or metal paint along the contact points where steel wears bright.
Matt varnish
Finish with matt varnish so the model survives handling at the table.

Scale it down for 15mm

Drop the chipping almost entirely and keep dust light. Heavy weathering at 15mm reads as dirt on the model, not on the tank.

What to skip

For a gaming army, skip streaking and rain marks on every vehicle. Pick one or two tanks for extra work as centrepieces and give the rest a consistent quick finish.